Succulents, pests, and most common problems – All in one place

It would be wonderful to buy a new succulent plant and see it thriving for years on end. However, that’s not the case, even for experienced growers like me… I have had a fair share of troubles with all sorts of pests an issues, including thrips, aphids, white stuff on succulents, powdery mildew, and so on, and so forth. In this complete guide I will loo at all the issues, and how to address it, one by one. Let’s go!

 

Thrips on succulents

Thrips are tiny insects with unique asymmetrical mouth parts that feed on sap of various plants. Succulents aren’t their favorite choice, but they sometimes enjoy the tasty sap of these versatile plants, especially (but not only) the Lithop family, often called “living stones” or “pebble plants”. I have experienced this several times over the years, and learned how to deal with these pests, though it isn’t always easy.

Before we dive into details, let me start with some facts and good news. In 95% of cases, thrips aren’t deadly to succulents. Sure, they parasite on the sap, but in some cases you will barely spot the damage, and a mature and healthy plant will easily deal with it. In certain cases, however, thrips can damage the flowers and a foliage to some extent, and in rare cases they can also transmit foreign microorganisms to the succulent, such as viruses, which can cause death to the plant.

 

Not all thrips are harmful, try to stay calm when you spot them for the first time

We tend to panic as soon as we spot something unusual on our succulents. However, we should realize that no plant is an isolated unit, and in nature all sorts of organisms always live together. In today’s world, thinking that we can grow any plants without pests is an illusion. Of course, if you use pesticides and insecticides often, you can achieve such a result. But I doubt it is something you want to do in your garden, let alone in your home.

What I try to say here is that you should not panic as soon as you spot thrips on one of your succulents. Isolate the plant, that means remove it to some distance from other plants. Then observe it. If the succulent seems just fine, and you do not witness the number of thrips growing exponentially, you do not have to do anything. It is still better keeping the succulent in isolation, in order to prevent infestation of other plants.

 

Homemade remedies for thrips on succulents

If you think the issue is more serious, or simply want to get rid of thrips, you can do so with one of the following remedies:

• Soap and water. Mix five tablespoons of organic soap with a gallon of water. Shake well and spray on the leaves of the succulent. Repeat two times, with two-days break in between. You can also pour a the leftover soapy water on soil, killing the larvae of thrips.
  Neem oil. Neem oil is well-known among succulent growers, since we can treat many problems with it. Thrips are no exception to the rule. Combine two spoons of neem oil with four spoons of organic soap with one gallon of water. Shake well and spray on the succulents.
• Sticky traps. Thrips do not fly, and they have to “climb” on your succulent from the soil where they reproduce. Putting “sticky papers” on the stems of your succulent can prevent thrips from getting on the plant. It is best combining sticky traps with neem oil/soap and water treatment. First you kill the thrips with the solution, and later, installing the sticky traps on your succulents, you prevent the new generation to climb on the plant.
• Introduce natural predators to your garden. The most natural way of making sure thrips won’t damage your succulents is having natural predators around. Ladybugs are the most effective, they eat thrips, aphids, and many other pests that can bother your succulents. Plant attractive flowers (ideally a variety of flowers) close to your succulents. Sure enough ladybugs will come and feed on the pests.
• Vacuuming. This surprising remedy works great with thrips. They are so tiny and lightweight that any decent vacuum cleaner will either suck them in or blow them away from the plant. Just “vacuum” your succulents just as you do your carpets once a week and you’ll be fine!
  Having ladybugs in your garden is a true blessing, since they help with a variety of pests, including thrips

 

Preventive measures against thrips on succulents

They rightly say that prevention is always better than cure. Things aren’t that easy with thrips though. If you live in an area where they are commonplace, you can hardly do anything to ensure not a single thrip will enjoy the tasty sap of your succulents. Having said that, you can do a couple of things to make sure that the population of thrips in your garden won’t grow to proportions which will pose a serious threat to your succulents.

First of all, make sure to use the right soil mix, and water the succulents only when the soil is completely dry. Secondly, aim for some variety in your garden. Add trees, bushes, flowering plants, simply different kind of fauna that attracts different kinds of insects and animals in general, including natural enemies of thrips, such as ladybugs. Last but not least, make sure that dead rotting leaves do not accumulate in autumn around your succulents, especially not in bulk, since eggs of thrips overwinter in such an environment.

Final thoughts

Seeing thrips on succulents, especially on the species belonging to the Lithop family (the “living stones”), is nothing uncommon. Thrips, just like other small insects, belong to the ecosystem, and unless they lack natural predators or over-populate, they do not pose a serious threat to your succulents. Having said that, you can apply several natural remedies (as we discussed earlier), including spraying, vacuuming, and trapping thrips, to minimize the chances of them causing any serous damage. You can also take several measures to prevent the population of thrips from growing, such as introducing more variety to your garden. Hope this helps, and I wish you good luck with your succulents!

 

Tiny black bugs on succulents

In normal conditions, succulents aren’t particularly attractive to various bugs and pests. Insects prefer other plants that are easier to attack, and offer a more delicious sap. However, in the midst of a rainy season, or in generally damp and humid conditions, or if you (no doubt unwittingly) over-water your succulents, you can spot tiny black bugs on their leaves and stems. In rare cases it can also happen in normal dry conditions, for example when bugs jump from a previously infested plant on your succulent. But what exactly are these tiny insects and how can you get rid of them?

Before we dive into important details, let me give you a quick answer to the question: The tiny black bugs on your succulents are most likely fungus gnats (also known as sciarid flies), less like aphids (most prevalent aphid species have green color, but we know more than three thousand aphid species, and some have black color), and even less likely ants, which many people with bad eyes may easily mistaken for bugs. Let’s have a look at each of these pests, and how you can deal with it.

 

Fungus gnats as the no. 1 most common tiny black bugs on succulents

Fungus gnats thrive in moist and damp conditions. But it doesn’t mean that they do not appear in dry climate. Actually they do not need much–a couple of succulent pots with moist soil, or a compost ground nearby, or a rotting plant near the succulents. What I try to say here is that a fitting micro-climate is enough for them to settle and start breeding. And they can find your succulent pot such a micro-climate.

These gnats, often also called sciarid flies, aren’t particularly dangerous on their own, but having them on your succulents signalizes a bigger problem. You are most likely over-watering your plants. Unless you stop soon, you will lose your succulents to root rot and consequent death of the plant.

My best advice in this case is amending the watering schedule, or even repotting the plant to a well-draining succulent soil, throwing the old soil away (since there are almost for sure eggs of these gnats in the soil). If you do not feel like repotting the plant (for what-ever reason), you can try sprinkling the leaves with a soap and water mixture repeatedly. Pouring cinnamon powder on the soil may also help, but cinnamon is expensive so I am not sure if this is a best solution. If you want to be 100% sure, repot the plant, throw the old soil away, adjust watering schedule, and most likely the fungus gnats will simply disappear from your succulent.

Black aphids as no. 2 most common tiny black bugs on succulents

Aphids often appear on plants for no apparent reason. If you have an outdoors garden, and it isn’t a permaculture establishment (where natural enemies of aphids thrive), you may easily find aphids on half of your plants (of any kind, including fruit trees, vegetables, or succulents). Aphids feed on plant sap and excrete a sugary substance that attracts ants and other bugs. Hence ants often follow aphids, and the problem only intensifies…

Except of having a permaculture garden with huge variety of plants and trees and dozens of insect and animal species that naturally feed on each other, there’s no sure way of avoiding aphids on your succulents. If they appear indoors, however, wet soil or humid conditions are typically to blame, and you should make sure to improve the growing conditions of your plants. Onion-garlic spray, mixture of baking soda and vegetable oil, or even a simple dish-washing soap are just some of the remedies.

 

Ants as no. 3 most common black “bugs” on succulents

Ants technically aren’t bugs, but it is easy to mistaken them for such, especially if you do not have the best eyes. In many countries around the world we experience something we can call an “epidemic of ants”, and it poses a serious threat for gardeners and plant growers. Just like with aphids the causes aren’t exactly clear, but the most common cause is climate change, which puts a dent to the balance of our natural ecosystems. Ants lose their natural enemies, and suddenly they are almost everywhere!

Ants are hard to defeat, since they are smart, their cooperation is excellent, and the pure quantity of them can overwhelm any enemy. Once you have ants in your house or garden it isn’t easy getting rid of them. Sure enough, you can put sticky ant traps on the stems of your plants and trunk of your trees. But this will always work just to some extent, and some ants will reach the plants anyway. I have to advocate for permaculture again. Having a variety of plants and trees in your garden, and plenty of naturally occurring insects and birds in your garden is the best prevention from the “epidemic of ants”. Anything else will be an endless fight.

Final thoughts

In normal conditions succulents aren’t particularly attractive to bugs or other insects. However, in the midst of a rainy season, or when you over-water your plants, or when you simply do not have right balance in your garden (in terms of plants, insects, and animals), tiny black bugs may appear on your succulents. As you know now, in most cases it goes about fungus gnats, black aphids, or black ants.

It isn’t always easy to deal with these pests, and you have to be patient. Spraying the plant once with a homemade remedy will rarely do the trick. You have to repeat the procedure several times, and even then it may not work. With fungus gnats repotting the succulent (and less frequent watering) will often help, but with aphids or ants it is more about managing the problem than completely eliminating it. Hope this helps, and I wish you good luck with your succulents!

 

Aphids on succulents

Even though insects are a natural part of gardening, and many insects are actually helpful (you should not consider them your enemies), some insects will damage plant growth. A great example is Aphids. It happened to me last year that three of my succulent plants almost died, getting dry and having plenty of tiny green dots in their leaves. These were aphids as I quickly learned…

 

Aphids suck vital fluids out of the plant

As I researched the topic more and more, I found out that aphids suck vital fluids out of plants, they get try and may eventually die.Aphids are those tiny green, yellow, pink, or soft-bodied black insects that are damaging the leaves and stem of the succulents.

Almost all plants have Aphids, but while for some mature plants they do not represent a major risk (unless we talk about the “beauty” aspect of the plant), for some smaller succulents aphids can cause even death.

Most Aphids are on the underside of the leaves which makes them harder to detect by a human hand. As a result of aphids infestation, succulent leaves will turn yellow and become distorted. In cacti, however, the first sign is not the yellowing of the leaves. It is not easy to detect if the plants are still healthy or not because they look like a strong plant because of their thorns and fattier structure.

We can only recognize when something is happening when the plant is continuously turning thinner with whitey dots because the fluid or nutrients inside of the plants are getting sucked away by aphids. After a few weeks or months, its thorns become brown. At that moment, the only choice is to cut the damaged part and replant the non-damage part for it to survive. When you identify Aphids in early stages, however, you can use some home remedies to get rid of them. Before we look at these remedies, let me first specify five common causes of infestation with aphids.

 

Five causes of aphids and four most common symptoms in succulents

To the main causes of aphids infestation belong the following five causes. Remember that severe infestation is typically a cumulative result of two or more causes.

• Lack of sunlight and water
• Strong heat not suitable for the plant
• Excessive use of fertilizers and pesticides
• Transplanting and changing of climate of the plant
• Springtime in a year that’s heavy with aphids

To the most common symptoms belong:

• The unnecessary death of leaves
• Yellowing and honeydew on leaves
• The stem is getting dry
• Wilting or folding of leaves

Now you know how to identify aphids on your succulents, and what causes this infestation to erupt and get worse. Let’s have a look at some easy home-made remedies.

 

Dish-washing Liquid-Oil-Water-Spray

One of the easiest ways to treat aphids is by getting one tsp. dish-washing liquid, one tsp. vegetable oil and two cups of water.  Pour the ingredients in a spray bottle, shake gently, then finally lightly spray onto the affected area, or even on both sides of the leaves.

The combination of oil and dish-washing liquid covers the spiracles that will suffocate the aphids. After 3 to 4 hours, wipe the leaves and stem with a soft rag or tissue to remove the soapy residue. It takes three days to see the result if the home remedies are effective or not for the succulents.

 

Onion-Garlic-Spray

The second natural way to kill or repel aphids is using 0nion-garlic solution made from two medium-size onion, two garlic cloves, and three cups of water (depending on your needs).

Chop them very finely, or if there is access with blender or food processor, it is much better. Mix the garlic and onion with water in a container and leave it to soak overnight.

Spray in the succulent leaves and stem with your solution. The smell of garlic and onion makes the aphids stay away from the plant. Keep the remaining solution in the refrigerator for future use. Repeat the process every seven days or so to keep aphids away from your succulents and even from other plants.

 

Baking Soda-Dishwashing Liquid- Oil-Water-Spray

Third natural remedy is the Baking Soda-Dishwashing Liquid-Oil-Water solution, made of one teaspoon of baking soda and one-third cup of vegetable oil or regular oil if possible. It may not kill all aphids, but it has a repellent action and progress to get rid of the pests.

Fourth option mixing 70% alcohol, a little bit of dish-washing liquid, and water. It is one of the least choices to treat succulents, but if you don’t have oil, onion, or garlic, this remedy may work.

 

Tomato Leaf-Water-Spray 

Fifth home remedy is the mixture of tomato leaves and water. In this solution, it is still possible to add one tsp. of oil to make it even more effective in killing aphids on succulents.

Tomato has a toxic compound called alkaloids that can be found in its leaves. What you need to do is chop the leaves, and soak overnight with water in the spray bottle. It is a natural aphid’s killer and is not dangerous for humans or pets. The same process with other remedies, it should be sprayed on both sides of the leaves and stem for a better result.

As a succulent lover, I already tried the dishwashing liquid and oil solution to my cacti, Haworthia, or the “alligator tail” succulents, as well as to my water plant like Lucky Bambo. I found that the solution works great against aphids.

 

Two Basic Techniques to Trap Aphids

1. Yellow Glass. Get yellow glasses and add water, as well as soap or detergents to break water tension. Place these glasses inside your garden or near your plants and eventually, aphids will drown inside the glass and die. We can also trap and capture aphids by yellow paper with sticky substance or tape and let the aphids walk into it.
2. Fake Garden. We can also install or make a separate fake garden to distract or trap aphids. Just make sure that the plant inside the fake garden is not placed in the real and original garden. For this project, you can use Larkspur, Cosmos, Aster, Tuberous begonia, and Mum plants for your fake garden.

Even though we can successfully kill aphids on succulents, it doesn’t mean that it will no longer attract pests. From time to time, cacti and succulents develop different problems related to their conditions, pests, and diseases. But there are basic ways on how you can prevent the aphids from attacking your succulents.

 

Final thoughts on pest prevention on succulents

• Succulent must be strong and healthy during the growing season.
• Always remove dead leaves of the succulents to avoid aphids and other insects hiding and breeding into it. It also helps to prevent mold.
• Don’t use running water for the succulents because too much water will kill the plant. Utilizing a spray is more applicable. If the soil of succulents is always wet, it may also attract aphids and other pests.
• Never reuse soil or putting dead leaves from plants that are affected by aphids, because there are still survivor eggs of insects into it that will infect your healthy or new plants.
• Maintenance of natural or home remedies spray for the succulent will help them to grow and become healthier continuously. It is a 100% solution that was non-toxic to humans, but it can repel harmful aphids.
• Lastly, it is the least choice of repelling aphids, use pesticides if you don’t have time to make home remedies for your plants, or if they do not work.

 

Succulent leaves shriveling – what is the problem?

If you see succulent leaves shriveling, it means that something wrong is going on.  In reality we know two main causes of this phenomenon. It could be either under-watering or over- watering. The lack of water will lead succulent leaves to turn brown and shrivel. Too much water, on the other hand, could cause the leaves to shrivel, becoming soft and mushy in the process.

As you can see, both the lack and too much water are detrimental to succulent plants. The tricky part is determining which of the two might cause the problem. In this post, I will share with you the signs of under watering and over watering so you can identify the cause, and address it accordingly.

 

How to tell whether my succulent got too much or too little water?

If you are a complete beginner to growing succulents (or plants in general), you can find it difficult to tel what’s going on. You simply follow your watering schedule, hoping for the best. But something is wrong, leaves start shriveling, and you do not know what to do. In such a case you will find the following list of symptoms handy:

Symptoms of Underwatered Succulents:

• Shrivel leaves
• Brown leaves
• The soil is completely dry

Symptoms of Overwatered Succulents:

• Leaves are turning yellow
• Leaves become translucent
• Soft and mushy leaves and stems
• The soil is wet

As you can see, the symptoms are similar, except for the soil and texture of the leaves. The best way to determine whether your succulent plant is under-watered or over-watered is to check the soil. Check the moisture in it. You can do this by sticking your finger into the soil and feel the moisture. If the dirt sticks to your finger when you take it back out to light,it is a clear indication that your soil is till wet. When your finger comes out clean, it tells you that the soil is already dry.

Another way to do this is by using a moisture meter (click here to check my recommended moisture meter on Amazon). This is, in my opinion, the most accurate way to determine the moisture in the soil. The weight of the pot can also tell you whether the soil is still moist or dry. What I like to do is to take the weight of a pot with completely dry soil and record it. Next time, I can easily determine whether the pot needs water or not by assessing its weight. A lighter pot means that the soil is already dry. Keep in mind though that as your plant grows, it gets heavier. You need to include it in your calculations…

Can You Save Underwatered Succulents with Shriveled Leaves?

The question of whether or not under-watered succulents can be saved depends on the severity of the problem. In most cases though, you can save your hardy fellas. As long as the succulent plant is not totally dead, it can recover. Remember that succulents are native to semi-desert areas. This means that they are used to experiencing dry periods with no rain.

When you notice this signs of under-watering, what you need to do is to give your succulent plants something to drink. Give them a good soak and let the soil dries before you water them again. If you do it right, succulent plants usually recover their normal appearance. Just maintain a good watering strategy–I recommend the soak and dry method.

 

Factors that influence the watering frequency

• The Growing Environment. The immediate environment where succulents are growing determines the water need of the plant. In an indoor environment, for instance, it takes a longer time for the soil to dry. Because you only water succulents when the soil is dry, the watering frequency is low. Frequent watering in this case can surely kill your plants, so be careful.

• Season or Climate. The other factor that affects the watering frequency of succulent plants is the season or climate. The soil moisture evaporates differently depending on the season. In summer, for instance, the soil moisture tends to dry pretty quickly. Thus, the watering is more frequent in summer than in winter. In colder seasons, the moisture takes time to dry thus succulent plants do need less frequent watering, often less than twice a month.

• Sunlight Exposure. The last factor that I can think of that affects the watering frequency is sunlight exposure. Needless to say, succulents in direct sunlight need more water than those in shade. Direct sunlight exposure evaporates the moisture in the soil making the plants thirsty.

Let me now share with you my three steps on successful succulent growing to avoid shriveling of their leaves.

 

1. Avoid light watering

I made this mistake when I started growing succulents. I thought that because succulents are accustomed to arid areas, they only need litter water. Hence I only watered them lightly. Sure enough, my succulents started to show some symptoms of under-watering. I noticed that the roots started to grow upward instead of downward and the entire root system was weak.

The leaves of the succulents also shriveled which alarmed me. I had no idea what was really going on. As you can see, light watering does not help the succulents plant at all. Although they are accustomed to dried areas, they love their roots being soaked in water occasionally–just like when a heavy rain pours down in a semi-desert area…

What you need to do is just soak the soil and let the excess water drains down to the drainage hole of the pot. Then water again once the soil is completely dry. However, before you soak the soil, make sure that you’re using an appropriate type of succulent soil.

 

2. Use a quick draining soil

I mentioned that soaking the soil when watering is what succulent plants need. However, you can only do this if you are using well-draining soil. If you are a complete beginner, make sure that you pick the gritty succulent mix. This type of soil does not absorb or retains too much water making the succulent roots safe from root rot. Also, an appropriate succulent soil mix provides aeration to the plant–something they truly love and are accustomed to from their natural habitat.

The good news is that such soil is easily available online (click here to check out my recommended succulent soil on Amazon). If you are willing and  to make your own succulent soil though, you can also do it I have a complete guide on how to make succulent soil and grow succulents successfully. You can find it here.

If you decide to go on this route, make sure that you pick the right ingredients for your succulent soil. The ingredients should include both organic and inorganic materials. The final result should be soil that drains excess water fast and does not hold too much water for too long.

Can You Save Overwatered Succulents with Shriveled Leaves?

As I already mentioned, shriveling of leaves in succulent plants can be caused by over-watering. When the roots of succulent plants are soaked in too much water, the leaves will turn translucent or yellow. They will get mushy and soft. It can happen from several reasons, some of them are more obvious and some rather obscure–something you may not guess. Let’s have a look at them now.

 

1. Frequent watering

Watering succulents frequently more than they need can be tremendously dangerous to these hardy plants. Succulents store water in their stems and leaves which allows them to survive in drought. This characteristic, however, makes these plants vulnerable to diseases such as root rot and other health issues related to excess water. Avoid frequent watering and use the soak and dry technique instead.

 

2. Inappropriate soil

Garden soil is not appropriate for succulents. It holds too much moisture and does not drain water. As a result, the water in the soil can cause root rot. Use fast-draining soil instead to keep your succulent plants safe from these problems.

 

3. Saucers and trays

Many people use saucers and trays underneath the pot to collect water from the draining soil through the drainage hole of the pot. We see it commonly especially when growing succulents indoors, since it prevents the water from spilling. However, if the saucers or trays are not emptied, the water in them can potentially cause root rot and shriveling. So do not forget to empty the tray ten minutes after watering. If you do not do so, the roots can start rotting from the bottom of the pot, and before you know it the leaves start shriveling and you have a problem on the table.

 

4. High Humidity

High humidity triggers water stress which is not good for succulent plants. If you are growing succulents indoors, this is something you need to pay attention to. Do not place the plants near the bathroom because they do not like such humid places.

How to revive over- watered succulents with shriveled leaves

I learned the hard way that reviving an over-watered succulent is more tricky than reviving an under-watered plant. The success depends on the severity of the issue. If over-watering has already ruined the whole plant (or its rooting system), it will be impossible to revive it. However, if you spotted the shriveling early on, then you can definitely revive the plant. Here are the simple steps you can follow:

 

1. Reduce watering

The first step is completely logical: immediately reduce the amount of water. Do not water until the soil becomes completely dry. If the soil does not dry for days, it might be that the soil is not well-draining. In this case, you can change the soil and plant the succulent to a new pot.

 

2. Change the soil and repot the plant

A slow-draining soil will not serve the succulent plants well. It can only bring harm to your succulents. If this is the case, do not hesitate to change the soil. Replace it with fast-draining soil and repot the plant. This should help revive the succulent plants with shriveled leaves.

3. Choose safe locations for your succulents

A highly humid area in the house, for instance, is not good for succulent plants. It can only cause water stress. Bathrooms are examples of high humidity places that most succulents do not like. If you are growing succulents indoors, you need to take this into consideration.

The success in growing succulents depends on understanding the factors that have a direct effect on the growth of the plant. Watering is one of the factors that detrimentally cause growth issues in succulent plants if not implemented correctly. Keep it on your mind, and choose a fitting place for your beloved plants.

 

Final thoughts

The main reasons why succulent leaves shrivel are over-watering and under-watering. The best way to prevent over-watering is to use an appropriate watering technique. The one that I recommend is the soak and dry method.

 

Succulent leaves cracking – reasons and remedies

One of the most common reasons why succulent leaves are cracking is overwatering. As you know, succulent stems and leaves store water. This is the primary reason why they don’t need as much water as other plant families. What happens is that the excessive amount of water adds to the water already stored in the leaves. When the leaves cannot hold it any longer, simply when their capacity is exceeded, it forces the cells to extend making it split or crack.

What to do when the leaves are cracking?

I guess you know what’s the first step now. Yes, you’re right, it is reducing the amount of water you give your succulents, or actually stopping the watering for a few weeks completely. But it is not as simple as you may think…

Lessening the water may not result in your plant returning to a healthy condition. There are other factors you need to consider. For instance, you need to make sure that the succulent is planted in fast-draining soil. If you regularly read this blog, you are already familiar with my dogma when it comes to choosing the best soil for succulent plants. I only recommend a soil mix that does a pretty good job when it comes to draining the excess water during the watering. Anyway, the top two remedies still are:

 

No. 1: Stop watering the succulents

You can stop for week or two, or even longer. Believe me, if leaves are splitting open, there is just too much water in your plant. In such a condition it can go on without any water for weeks on end…

However, it is very important to make sure that the excess water is indeed drained when you water the plant again. You can test it by inserting your finger into the soil. if the soil sticks into your finger, it is a sign that the soil is still wet. In such a case you need to opt for a more dramatic remedy.

 

2. Change the existing soil completely

If you are not using the fast-draining soil, the best thing you can do is to change the soil in the pot. Before you do it, however, make sure that you remove your plant safely from the pot. In an ideal case you should also remove the soil that’s sticking to the roots. Just then repot the plant in a fast-draining succulent soil mix. At this point, refrain from watering. Wait for a week before you water the newly transferred succulents. Now that the succulents are planted in the fast-draining soil, over-watering should not be an issue.

 

3 things to do to make sure you won’t experience the problem with curling leaves again

1. Choose the right soil mix – Succulents are prone to over-watering if they are planted in soil with poor drainage. Compact soil or regular garden soil is definitely not a good choice. Soil like that absorbs and retains too much water ,which will in turn cause root rot in succulent plants. In the beginning, you need to make sure that you choose the right soil. There are many commercial fast-draining soils you can buy from garden supply stores or online. If you want, you can also make your own fast-draining succulent soil mix.
2. Get familiar with growth cycles of succulents – Understating the growth cycle of your succulents is also important to keep them safe from over-watering. When succulents are dormant, they are not actively growing and therefore they don’t need as much water as they do during their growing season. It is very important that you know when your succulent is dormant and when it is actively growing.
3. Watering frequency – It plays an important role in keeping the succulent plant healthy, and the leaves whole without cracks. Unlike other plants, succulents do not like frequent watering because it could cause root rot, and other problems. Many succulent growers do follow a schedule in watering their succulent plants. However, I do not have a watering schedule for my succulent plants. I just use the soak and dry method I mentioned above. The watering frequency will therefore depend on the soil, When it gets dry, only then I water the plants.

 

Holes in succulent leaves – Reasons and remedies

I bought once a beautiful succulent and placed it in the garden. A few days later, I noticed those small and medium-sized holes in the leaves. As a newbie to succulent growing, I was not sure what was going on. I saw nothing that could have made those holes. Certainly not my dogs. Dogs can do a lot of stuff with your plants, but we cannot blame them for these small holes.

Honestly speaking, I was worried about my plants. So I researched the internet hoping to find a solution to the problem. Unfortunately, I found no satisfying answer.  Just years later, after seeing this problem many times and trying different remedies, I came to a conclusion that birds, insects, and over-watering are the most common causes of these holes. In this post I will explain the problem more in detail, as well as suggest you some good remedies, to make sure your plants remain beautiful and healthy.

Two main causes of holes in succulent leaves and how to address each one

Succulents are super easy to grow in general. As long as you give them their basic needs, they can grow and thrive without any special care. In this age, when everyone is busy and rushing somewhere, such plants logically gain popularity.

However, succulents also have their weaknesses, and are prone to environmental threats. Now let me explain the two main threats that can cause holes in their leaves, which can eventually have even fatal consequences for your beloved plants.

Insects can eat the entire plant

The tiny creatures can really turn your plant (or even your entire garden) upside-down. In fact, in some instances, they could eat the whole plant. Insects not only make holes in the succulent leaves, but they could also cause many health issues in the plant. If this is the case, you should make your succulents free from insects. I have my three steps guide on how to do it, and we will look at it right now.

Step 1: Isolate the affected plants

Insects can spread fast if an affected plant is placed in the middle of the garden. As soon as you notice the insects ruining one of your plants, you should move it away from other plants. Basically you should quarantine your succulent, just as you’d quarantine a sick animal or a sick person in a case of a transmittable disease.

Step 2: Cut the Affected Areas of the Plant

Now that the infected plants are isolated, you can proceed to the treatment. The first thing you should do is cutting the affected areas of the leaves using a clean knife or pruners. Make sure that the cutting tools you use are clean and free from other elements that could also harm the plant. This is the quickest way to get rid of those insects. Dip or soak the cut parts in the alcohol. But I prefer burning them, to make sure you kill the tiny insects in the leaves that eye cannot see. If you are  a Buddhist, however, or simply do not like to kill any living creatures, you can simply take those infected leaves with insects out of your garden, to a safe distance (50 meters would do in most cases)

Step 3: If previous remedies do not work, use pesticides

In my opinion, you should avoid using chemicals, but sometimes, when other remedies fail, it is your only option, unless you want to see your entire garden ruined. You can find many products, some are more ecological than others. If I should pick one only, this one will be my choice (* please not it is a sponsored link, if you decide to get the spray I may earn a small commission–a few cents, at no extra cost to you; such links allow me to continue this blog, so thank you 🙂).

Always remember to read the guidelines of the product and follow them. You should also remember that most pesticides may harm plants and even pets around, so opt for more ecological choices, and use them in moderation….

 

Over-watering can also lead to holes in the leaves of your succulents

Back when I was just started growing succulents, I had no clue that giving too much water to these plants is harmful. As a result, some of my succulents wilted, and others developed small holes in their leaves. I learned it from a hard experience… Over-watering can cause holes in the succulent leaves, no doubt about it. If the insects are not to blame, then there is a good chance that you simply watered your plants too much.

This phenomenon happens especially during the cold season. Succulents do not need much water, especially in winter. But some people do not know this and do not change their watering schedule. As you can imagine, it can have very bad consequences on the plants…

There is a simple remedy to this one, however. Just reduce the amount of water and the watering frequency. I suggest you to apply the soak and dry method. This strategy involves soaking the soil and then allow the excess water to drain through the drainage hole of the pot. Only water the plants when the soil is completely dry. Also, make sure you use the right soil for your succulents, that means one with a good drainage and consistency. This alone will reduce the chances of over-watering your plants heavily… If you aren’t sure about the right choice, check my favorite soil on Amazon–trusted by thousands of growers in the US..

 

Succulent leaves curling down – main reasons and how to address them

In 99% of cases, one of the following four reasons is to blame. We will elaborate on each one later on, explaining how you can remedy it.

• Over-watering – the number one reason
• Under watering – no. 2 reason
• Too little sunlight exposure – no. 3 reason
• Too much sunlight exposure – no. 4 reason

Now you know what can be the issue, let’s have a look at it in more detail, including the fixes.

Over watering as a most common mistake of succulent growers

Over-watering is the best way to kill succulent plants. If they are exposed to too much water and moisture, the stem, leaves, and roots will rot. This is one of the causes of why succulents’ leaves may start curling down–the plant is rotting and slowly dying.

In severe cases, it is harder to treat over-watered succulent than the under-watered ones. Fortunately, you can fix over-watering easily, especially when you notice early something is going on.Here’s what you should do.

First of all, reduce the watering frequency I suggest that you do not follow a fixed watering schedule for your succulents. Follow what the plants’ needs, not your calendar. That being said, I you to water the soil every time it dries, following the soak and dry method. This strategy is pretty straight forward to be honest. When you water succulents, make sure that you soak the soil (not the plant) and let the extra water drains. Just then you should water it again.

If your succulent plants are already suffering from over-watering, the quickest remedy is to change the soil in the pot. If possible, change the pot too. It is a quick fix that can sometimes save the plant from dying.

Too little water can be blamed for leaves curling

Life’s not always simple. Sometimes we give our beloved plants too much water, other times we give them too little. Lack of water causes the leaves to curl down, not only in succulents, but in most plants in general.

Unlike over-watering, under watering is much easier to fix. It commonly happens during summer when the inside and outside humidity is very low. In this instance, the moisture or water in the soil evaporates faster, and your regular watering schedule may simply not be appropriate. I such a case you simply need to increase the amount of water, and the watering frequency for your plants.

Just make sure that the excess water is drained. Although the summer season is hot, the stored water in the pot can still cause over-watering, regardless of the season. This is the reason why I always use pots with drainage holes-such as this one from Amazon–simple yet beautiful (* please note that this is an affiliate link, if you buy the pot I may earn a small commission–a few cents–at no extra cost to you).

 

Lacking sun

Apart from over and under watering, sunlight also influences the growth of the succulent plants. In fact, one of the reasons why the succulents’ leaves are curling down is too little sunlight exposure. Remember that succulent plants are native to semi-desert areas. This means that they are getting direct or indirect bight light in their natural habitat and they are accustomed to it.

So when you bring them in your garden or inside the house, you need to provide them enough sunlight. Too little sun exposure always happens to succulents indoor. Of course, the light is limited inside. To allow your succulent plants to absorb light is to place them near the window. Choose the one that has a longer sunlight exposure in the morning. This is because not all windows have sunlight access.

During winter, when sunlight is much more limited, it will be more challenging to grow succulents inside. In this case, I like to use these powerful grow lights for my succulents during cold seasons. They offer more functionality, including light and heat control, and can really help the grower of succulents. Check out the reviews and see for yourself!

Extreme sun can also kill the plant

When succulents are exposed to scorching sun, they can get sunburned which in turn causes the succulents’ leaves to curl down. This problem is pretty common in the summer season when humidity is low. Because succulents are from semi-desert areas, many people think that these plants will survive under any amount of direct sunlight.

Well, that is not entirely true. I used to believe in this as well, and lost many of my succulent plants because of my mistakes. The truth is that succulents need sunlight but not too much of it. Four to six hours a day will do. You can either move your plants around (if you have time for it and are at home), or you can simply place them in a location where they naturally get the desired mount of sunlight, and not more than that.

What I have learned over the years is that succulents love bright indirect sunlight. Some varieties though are more tolerant to direct sunlight than others. Examples of these are Cotyledons, Agave Parryi, Echeveria Agavoides, Sedum copper stone, Lampranthus- Vygies, etc. Generally speaking though, most succulents can get sunburned if they remain in direct sunlight too long. Keep it on your mind when deciding about their placement.

Final Thoughts

When the leaves of your succulent plants are curling down, you know something is wrong. In 99% of cases, you plants suffer from either over or under watering, or too much or too little sunlight exposure.

When you notice the curling, think about the plant, check the soil, consider the placement and your watering schedule, and try to find the culprit. The earlier you notice it, the easier it will be to fix the issue. The key is prevention. Give your succulent plants what they need, and you won’t see their leaves turning yellow or curling down….

 

Succulents turning yellow-what it indicates and how to deal with it

When the leaves of a succulent change their color to yellow (or yellowish), it is typically a sign of one of the following three problems: too much water, lack of water, wrong  pot size. Any of these three can hurt the succulent plant and cause yellowing of the stem or the leaves. But how do we know whether over or under watering causes the problem? Well, for me, the most basic and simple way to fault-find the problem is assessing the plant.

Root rot is a clear indication of over-watering

If you take a bit of soil our and see that roots, or the bottom part of the stem, started to rot, it is a clear sign of over-watering. Rotting can change the feature of the plant especially the color. The remedy is quite simple though: reduce the watering frequency and the amount of water you give your succulent.

Mark my words: If you notice the problem early, and the yellowing of the leaves is just in the starting phase, the succulent plant can be easily healed. After you reduce the amount water, the plant will eventually recover on its own terms, without additional help. If the rotting has already progressed a lot, however, you may not be able to save the plant. Quick response is key here.

 

Succulents change color when they lack space to grow

Succulents may change color if they don’t have space to grow. It usually happens when you have your plants in smaller pots. If this is the case, make sure to transfer the succulents to a bigger pot, one appropriate for its size.

But you need to remember that not all yellowing is a bad sign. If the lower leaves of the succulent plant turn yellow, then there’s usually nothing to worry about. It is a natural characteristic of virtually all plants. Wilting of leaves is part of their growing process. Some leaves turn yellow and fall, so new leaves of fresh green color can replace them. You should worry only when the top or upper leaves turn yellow, or the stem.

 

Check the soil to make sure over-watering isn’t your issue

Let me give you a few more tips. If you aren’t sure whether over-watering is the culprit here, examine the soil. Check the moisture or the stored water in the soil or pot. You do that by inserting our finger into the soil. If you feel too much moisture or the soil is wet, then over-watering is likely to blame for the yellowish color of the leaves.

Once you are certain about the cause of the problem, take immediate action to give you plant the best chance of a successful recovery. Late action may often result in the death of the plant.

 

Lack of light can also cause a plant turning yellow

Lack of light isn’t a typical reason why succulents turn yellow, but in certain conditions it can be the case. Especially if you are using a fast-draining soil, good size of a pot with a large hole, and do not over-water or under-water your plant. Let me explain.

When we expos succulent to excessive heat or direct sunlight for too long, the leaves of the succulents may turn yellow. Although succulents are native plants to semi-desert areas, they cannot tolerate an extreme heat or scorching sun all day long. I suggest you to expose them to direct sunlight in the morning. Once the sun gets stronger, transfer them in shade, so they get only indirect sunlight.

 

Pests can cause the leaves of succulents to curl and turn yellow

Another potential cause here is pests. Infested succulents may develop yellow leaves. It indicates that the plant actually experiences distress. Some of the common insects are mealybugs, aphids, spider mites. Some of them are easier to identify than others. For example, if aphids attack the plant, you will typically discover them inside of the curled yellowish leaves.

Fortunately, you can deal with these insects quite easily. You can make your own solution with a mixture of alcohol and water. Then, spray the solution to the affected succulents. If applied correctly, it will kill the insects and the plant will recover. And if the infestation is too strong for a home-made remedy, you can always use some natural insecticide (check my favorite one on Amazon, it has always worked great for me, even against the strongest infestations with pests).

 

White stuff on my succulents–What it is and how to deal with it

The white stuff you can find on succulents, and also in other plants, can come in different shapes and consistencies. Some plants have waxy stuff on their leaves but some have powdery stuff. If you pay close attention to such details, can easily determine what’s going on with your plant. Before we look into details, please note that white stuff can be something completely normal, but it can indicate an infestation or something else that requires your attention. Let’s have a look at 4 most common causes of this phenomenon.

 

1. Epicuticular Wax

You may notice some of your succulents that were once vibrant getting pale, soft, and pastel in color. This is due to the development of epicuticular wax. Some refer to it as Farina―a very even dusting of powder. It is a thin layer of silvery film that you commonly see on grapes, plums, and some other plants.

One way to distinguish if the plant has developed this wax is by examining its uniformity. If you see a very even coating, most probably it is farina. The thickness may vary depending on the plant species but it is always evenly distributed. Farina serves as a protective covering to the plants. Because it is hydrophobic, it makes the water bead up to prevent too much water from entering the plant. It also acts as a surface to adhere to dirt particles so it can be easily washed away by just drops of water.

The air can make the plants dry but the farina covering helps it stay moisturized. It also serves as a sunscreen that reflects harmful UV rays from the sun and prevents the plants from sunburn. It also serves as protection from pathogens, insects and extreme conditions. The surface is quite slippery that it makes it hard for insects to walk upon and to lay eggs on. Having the wax on the plant is normal. In fact, it has a lot of benefits for your plants, so it is not advisable to wipe it off. Once the wax is wiped off, it takes a while to come back, so the plant may be vulnerable during this time period.

2. Powdery Mildew

This is a very similar-looking fungal disease that may occur in your plants. If you notice a white, powdery mold on one of the leaves of your plants, it may be a sign of powdery mildew. It appears to be white commonly but sometimes develop yellowish, brown or black growths.

This type of fungus tends to live in warm, dry places similar to places where succulents thrive. Because of the same environment, it is more common to see succulents infected by this fungus, when compared to any other plant family. Unlike farina, it does not spread on the whole plant evenly. It is also a bit patchier than some thick parts of the farina. It appears to be fury or fuzzy and it tends to spread from one leaf to another. Often it only covers one or two whole leaves before spreading to other leaves and nearby plants. It tends to be found in some of your plants’ stems and fleshy leaves.

This fungal disease may not show any harm to your plant and may allow it to live for quite a while until it becomes worse. If not treated, it may take away the nutrients from the plants causing it to become pale green or yellow then later makes it wither.  Your plant may lose leaves, fail to flower, or worse, die. Powdery mildew is highly contagious so you may want to separate your infected plants from the healthy ones to prevent further damage. Though it sounds a bit terrifying it only requires very simple and easy treatment.

When fungi occur, you may want to gently pull off infected leaves and separate the plant from healthy ones to prevent the spread. You may also use fungicide (check my favorite fungicide on Amazon, one that works great against powdery mildew in my experience)after the separation to kill the fungi and stop it from spreading throughout.

 

3. White Flies

White flies are small, white, flying insects that are commonly found in leafy succulents. They reproduce rapidly so you might want to take action immediately when you notice these insects in your plant. The insects and its larva are white but the eggs appear to be yellowish and turn brown when about to hatch.

Unlike farina, they do not produce evenly distributed powdery substance. These insects leach nutrients from the plant leaving honeydew that causes dark mold. If you notice this sticky substance on your plant, it is most probably an indication of white fly infestation. You may also notice these insects flying underneath the leaves when the plant is shaken. Most often, these are found under the leaves rather than on top. They thrive in hard to reach places. These insects cause the plants to deform and eventually wither when not treated.

Since these insects multiply rapidly, it may be a bit hard to remove them totally. You may try blasting out the insects and larva with water. Spraying the plant directly on the infected parts with a diluted rubbing alcohol may also help. Using formulated dish-washing soap in a spray may also be effective. You may want to repeat this as necessary until all of the insects fall out and die. Worm castings may also be effective. Worm castings are mineral-rich worm dung that can be beneficial to the plant. It may serve as an organic fertilizer while protecting your plant from infestation. This type of manure enables the production of chitinase― a hydrolytic enzyme that breaks down the exoskeleton of insects. The white flies will detect this enzyme and decide not to lay eggs in the plant knowing that it may be harmful to it.

Mealy Bugs

During winter and cold weather, bugs and pests tend to hatch out and find something to eat. This is most likely the time when mealybugs try to thrive in plants like succulents. At first, you might not notice the bugs. You might notice some of the leaves deforming and white spots occurring on the leaves of your plants before actually seeing the bugs.

So, when this occurs you might want to scan the whole plant because they might be hiding somewhere underneath the leaves or in the middle part of your plant. Commonly, the white spots look like cottony substance that resides at the bottom of the leaves or on the stems. Mealybugs are one of the most common infestations in plants like cacti and succulents. These are tiny elliptical insects that are usually 2-3-millimeter-long and commonly are white, gray, or light brown in color.

Similar to the white flies, it also produces honeydew that supplements further bacterial and fungal infection. These bugs can also be spread from plant to plant, hence you may want to isolate the infected plant from the healthy ones just like how you deal with white flies. You may use diluted rubbing alcohol with a 70% solution or you may also use insecticide, such as this great one from Amazon (* affiliate link, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you decide to make a purchase).

You can get rid of the white, cottony substance by dipping a q-tip in the solution and rubbing it off. Some plants may be too small for the q-tip to fit so spraying the plant directly on the infected areas may also help. These bugs are hard to get rid of and may require a couple of repetitions every week. They do not disappear easily and sometimes are found on the roots of the plant. When this happens you may have to remove the plant from the pot and clean of the soil.

One study also showed that ladybugs as predators for the mealy. Ladybugs are not harmful to succulents and they are very pleasing to the eyes. They may help by eating every aphid, mites, and mealy that they find.

 

How to get rid of powdery mildew–one of the most common problems people growing succulents face

Before we look at the best remedies, let me clarify briefly what powdery mildew is (and what it isn’t). Powdery Mildew is a kind of fungal disease that thrives in different plants. It is the most common and easily recognized plant disease, especially when compared to other fungal diseases that may be hard to tell from each other.

Powdery mildew is a widespread fungus on plants, trees, fruits, and vegetables, and its symptoms are quite distinctive. It is prevalent in warm, dry weather. It does not spread so well in cooler, rainy areas. Hence, it has a chance to survive in winter seasons within the buds and tissue of the host plants.

Various plants are immune to this kind of fungal disease, however, some are more susceptible than others. The fungus develops in moderate temperature, low humid environment and overwinters in the soil. The lower leaves of the plants are the most affected, but the mildew can develop on any above-ground part of the plants.

 

White spots, as if dusted with flour

The powdery mildew first appears as white spots, just as if you dusted your beloved succulent with flour, or refined powdery sugar :). It can appear in stems, leaves and sometimes in fruits. The white spots can take over to leaves and to the affected area as well.

Powdery mildew may disfigure the plants’ leaves, buds, and growing tips. The plant that has powdery mildew can affect the other plant through the wind, insects and splashing water. The infection is uncommon during the lengthened rainy season and extreme heat. As the mildew spread, the leaves become yellow and wit, eventually, the entire branch dies.

The powdery mildew is caused by high humidity. In some cases, the fungal growth can be temporarily removed by rubbing the leaves. Infections may occur when they connect to suitable hosts and especially when environmental conditions are perfect. There are other effects of powdery mildew that are not readily visible. Fertilize to optimize the plant and also the plant health, but avoid over-fertilize with nitrogen as it enlivens young, succulent growth which is more susceptible to infection.

Taking away the plant’s nutrients

Powdery mildew can take away the plant’s nutrients therefore the plant can become weaker, less bloom and it slows down the plant’s growth. Eventually, if you do not treat it, powdery mildew can kill the plants.

When it has covered the plants’ leaves, the photosynthesis does not work as it should, and the infected leaves may fall. That’s what you should try to avoid at all costs. The ideal condition for powdery mildew to attack the plants and cause most damage is during the late spring or early summer when evenings are still cool.

Succulents that have a severe infection must be monitored closely the following spring so that if infections reoccur, they can be treated immediately. Powdery mildew has a various genus on each plant, and each succulent.  Let’s have a look at most common ones.

 

Powdery mildews in various plants

• Wheat, barley and other cereals – Blumeria graminis
• Legumes – Microsphaera diffusa
• Grape – Erysiphe necator (or Uncinula necator)
• Onions – Leveillula taurica
• Apples and pears – Podosphaera leucotricha
• Lilacs – Microsphaera syringae
• Strawberries – Podos aphanis
• Tree leaves – Sawadaea tulasnei
• Oregon grape – Erysiphe berberidis
• Arabidopis – Golovinomyces orontii

How to prevent your succulents from succumbing to powdery mildew

Fortunately, there are many options to prevent this fungus. Let me list the major ones:

• Choose a succulent or plant that is resistant and tolerant to powdery mildew.
• Avoid watering succulents or plants from overhead to reduce humidity.
• Selectively shear the overcrowded to increase the circulation of air, this also helps to reduce humidity, and consequently a chance of developing a fungal infection.
• Always sanitize the pruning tools, to make sure you do not bring the infection from one plant to another.
• Remove the affected foliage from the plant and clean up the fallen debris on the ground.
• Spray your plants with fungicides, ideally the ones with copper, such as this great fungicide.
• Water the succulents in the morning, so plants have a chance to dry during the day, and do not stay humid for the night to attract fungi.
• Avoid placing susceptible succulents to humid and shady areas.
• Avoid over-fertilizing the succulents with nitrogen.
• Use healthy planting stock.s
• Avoid chemicals in your garden as much as possible.
• Place the succulents in a fitting place so they can get some direct sunlight.
• Make sure soil drained properly before watering again. If you do not do it, a soil can become a breeding ground for disease-causing organisms.

 

Ten organic treatments for powdery mildews

1. Potassium bicarbonate – is an effective and safe treatment that kills spores. It has the unique advantage of eliminating powdery mildew once it’s there. It is a contact fungicide that kills the spores of powdery mildew quickly.
2. Milk – another effective way to get rid of powdery mildew. As the milk is hit by the sun, free radicals will form that will, in turn, kill the fungus.
3. Neem oil – is from the seeds and fruit of neem tree. It is powerful enough to kill powdery milk in less than 24 hours.
4. Vinegar – it is very effective in killing powdery mildew because of the acetic acid in apple cider vinegar. But, be careful to not make the mixture too strong as the acidity can burn succulent leaves.
5. Baking soda – similar to potassium bicarbonate, baking soda has a pH level of 9, enough to kill the fungus. This is the homemade organic treatment for spores of powdery mildew.
6. Garlic – has high sulfur that can kill powdery mildews.
7. Sulfur – it is a natural product that can control and prevent powdery mildew
8. Copper fungicides – it is very effective when it comes to killing fungus but it is very important to follow instructions closely.
9. Mouthwash – if this can kill bacteria in our mouth, certainly the fungal spores of powdery mildew are no match for its properties.
10. Water – it washes off the spores before they have time to be embedded but it is only temporary. Spores may form again in plants.

5 Best fungicides for powdery mildew

If the free methods discussed above did not work, you use the following fungicide for your succulents:

1. Bayer Advanced 701270
2. Wondercide All Purpose-Organic Insect Control
3. Spectracide Immunex Fungus Control
4. Wondercide Eco Treat-Powdery Mildew Killer
5. Ferti- Lome 11380 Liquid Fungicide Spray

* Please note that there are affiliate links. If you purchase one of the products I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Such commissions help me to continue this blog. 

Plants and fruits susceptible to powdery mildew

• Begonias, Sunflowers, Chrysanthemums
• Dahlias, Roses, Zinnias
• Melons, Zucchini, Squash
• Lettuce, Cucumbers, Potatoes
• Parsley, Pumpkins, Grape
• Peppers, Tomatoes, Various tree fruits

 

Final Thoughts

Powdery mildew can be caused by a variety of reasons, and sometimes you are just unlucky and your plants get it. When prevalent, this innocently looking fungus may prove to be the biggest problem for the gardener.

Powdery mildew won’t infect humans but it can certainly kill succulents and other plants if you do not treat it. You should always take precautions, because if you don’t the chances are high that you won’t avoid seeing your plants infected.

Direct sunlight helps to kill the spores of powdery mildew before they can spread to plants. As the mildew progress, the spots are getting larger and compact as large numbers of asexual spores are formed, and the mildew may spread up and down the distance of the plant. As situation gets serious, direct sunlight won’t be enough, and you will have to use one of the remedies I described in this article. I sincerely hope you will succeed, and enjoy the succulents in their full beauty.

 

Black spots on succulents

One of the most common problems growers experience are the black spots on the leaves or even on the stems of their plants. Let me immediately clarify what causes these black spots. We know three main causes: sunburn, over-watering, and insects. In no way are black spots on leaves natural. As soon as you spot them, you know something’s wrong with your plants.

To assess what causes the problem, touch the leaves. If the black-spotted part is dry, it is most likely caused by sunburn. Maybe you placed your plants under super strong sunlight, or you simply have a succulent variety that prefers indirect sunlight or shade, and not knowing that you placed it under direct sunlight. What to do in this case?

 

Removing the leaves with black spots is your only remedy

Unfortunately, there is nothing you can do to revive the dead leaves. Hence you should remove them. The next step is to bring the succulents in shade or indoor.s But always remember that succulents  still need sunlight.

It is just important that you give them what they need, instead of simply placing them in the sunniest spot of your garden. Just as that wouldn’t help your skin, it doesn’t help the “skin” of succulents, and hence they get sunburned and develop black spots on their leaves.

 

Soft and sticky black spots suggest over-watering

If the blackish spots are gooey, over-watering is to blame. Again, there is nothing you can do to leaves with black spots except of removing them and freeing the plant. After doing so, transfer or repot the plant in the fast-draining soil mix for succulents (click here to check my favorite one on Amazon).

Then you should use the soak and dry watering technique. Pour water in the soil, not on the top of the plant. Then water the plant again only when the soil is completely dry. Depending on the climate or season, design your own watering schedule. Remember that black spots appear firstly on few leaves. This is a bad sign, and you have to act quickly. If you do not address the problem, the black spots will eventually cover the leaves and the whole plant.

 

The entire plant turning black is a clear sign of rotting

When all leaves or the entire succulent plant turns black, it is most likely a sign of the entire plant rotting from the root to the top. One of the main causes is again over-watering.

The best thing you can do is obviously to remove the plant from the pot. But make sure that the plant can still be revived. In some cases, if the rotting has progressed too much, you will not save a plant regardless of what you do.

Examine where the mushy parts are and remove them. You are lucky if the rotting happens on the top of the succulent. This means that you can re-pot the plant and save it. Remove all the rotting parts and get the healthy parts secured. Let them dry for a while before potting them in the fast-draining soil.

Can you save a succulent with the black stem?

In the worst possible scenario, you don’t only notice the blackening on the leaves but also on the stem of the plant. The parts of the plant with black spots become mushy, which is again a clear sign of excessive water in the soil, and in the plant.

The first thing you can do in this case is to assess whether or not some parts of the succulent remain healthy. If you find some, all hope is not lost. You can replant and revive the plant from the healthy parts. Cut all the black or rotten areas and throw them away. Make sure that you retain only the part of the plant that is completely healthy.

 

Insect causing black spots on succulent leaves

Though succulents aren’t as prone to insects as some other plants (think lettuce, tomatoes, and other vegetables you grow in your garden as a prime example), they aren’t completely safe either. And while sunburn and excessive water are the two main reasons of black spots on succulent leaves, you should check for the third possible cause as well–the insects.

The problem with insects is that it is often too small to spot, or it may attack the plant in night, when you sleep, and hence you never see the intruders, and may doubt whether they cause the problem. My advice: if you rule out over-watering and sunburn, insects are to blame. Let me explain.

If your plant is in shade, or it isn’t particularly sunny, and at the same time the soil is dry, you can rule out the two most common causes of black spots on succulent leaves. In such a case insects are to blame. It can be aphids (check aphids on succulents for more info), but it can be also snails, bugs, etc. If you aren’t sure you can simply try to move the succulent to another location (perhaps indoors), or you can use some pesticide (wither homemade or bought) as a prevention. Needless to say, I strongly suggest you to use home-made and ecological solutions.

Final thoughts

We know three main causes of black spots on succulent leaves. As you know now, you can identify sunburn and over-watering quite easily–depending on the structure of the leaves, as well as gauging the situation of your plant–where you placed it, how often you water it, etc.

When you rule out sunburn and over-watering, insects are typically to blame. I hope this article helped you learn how to deal with these problems, and that you will enjoy your succulent garden, and revive the plants that have black spots on their leaves. Good luck to you!

 

Baby toes succulent shriveling

Let’s finish this article with a problem one of my favorite succulents often daces. Native to Namibia and South Africa, Baby Toes Succulent (Fenestraria rhopalophylla) can withstand hard winds, prolonged periods of drought, and even almost a total neglect. It isn’t one of those plants you have to babysit and check on every single day, making sure it isn’t thirsty or lacks something. Having said that, when we try to grow a succulent outside of its native areas–for example in Europe or North America, where a climate is different, it may sometimes struggle, and we may experience problems. With Baby Toes Succulent, the most common problem is shriveling.

Before we dive into details so you understand what’s exactly going on, and how you can revive your succulent (if that’s possible), let me briefly summarize the three main causes of shriveling Fenestraria: Over-watering and subsequent root rot is definitely the most common reason, second one is under-developed root system, which can easily happen when you use wrong soil mix for Baby Toes Succulent, and the last one and least common is under-watering. Let’s have a look at each cause, how you can identify it and what you can do to address it.

 

Over-watering as no. 1 reason for Baby Toes Succulent shriveling

It may seem illogical that a plant shrivels when you give it excessive water. As soon as you understand the chain of cause and effect here though, you won’t find it strange anymore. What happens is that roots of your Baby Toes Succulent start to rot, if they bath in water, for example when you water the plant too often or have bad drainage in place. Once the roots rot, they cannot transfer water or required nutrients to the body of the plant anymore. It will start shriveling, and in many cases it will eventually die.

In order to identify the problem you should inspect the roots. Gently take away part of the soil and check the roots. If they are brownish in color and soft and have a weird smell, you are almost certainly dealing with root rot. In extreme cases you may not even find any roots in the soil, since they have already rotten and decomposed. Secondary signs also help with the identification of the problem. If you use a pot without a drainage hole, and the soil is wet anytime you check it, over-watering is likely the culprit here.

Bad news is that you typically cannot save the succulent, unless you spot the problem early (which is rarely the case since symptoms like shriveling develop only when the root system is heavily damaged). I suggest you to simply throw the plant away and start from scratch, avoiding repeating the same mistakes (such as having a pot with no drainage, or watering the plant more often than once in every two weeks). Of course you can try saving the succulent, repotting it and removing rotten roots, but in my opinion this plant is quite delicate when damaged and your chances of succeeding are rather slim here.

Under-watering as no. 2 reason for shriveled Baby Toes Succulent

Before you blame under-watering, mark my words: Baby Toes Succulent is native to places like South Africa and Namibia. It doesn’t rain much down there, and this succulent is adapted to longer periods of drought. However, in some special cases, such as when you have a very small succulent, or when some major problem occupies your head and you forget to water your plants for a month, it can happen that it lacks water, and shrivels.

Remedy is very simple here: Soak it out thoughtfully with water, just as a rare rain in desert would soak it. Make sure that the excess water drains away from the pot. If this was really the cause of the issue and your Baby Toes Succulent was thirsty, you should notice significant improvements within 48 hours of watering. It is important to point out that you shouldn’t go bananas here, starting to water the succulent very often since you neglected it for some time. The key is to soak it with water once, and then simply return to normal watering schedule, which isn’t too frequent for this succulent.

 

Under-developed root system as the no. 3 cause of Baby Toes Succulent shriveling

What I noticed with this succulent is that the roots are quite delicate, and they do not grow as easily as it is the case with most other succulents, especially in soil mixes that are too gritty. If you pot your Baby Toes Succulent in such a mix (which may by the way work perfectly well with many other succulents) it can happen that the roots remain minuscule, and they just cannot transfer enough water and nutrients to the entire plant. What happens in this case is that some leaves will shrivel, typically not all, and you should see at least some completely healthy leaves on your succulent. New leaves may also be “sprouting” from the ground.

In order to address this problem, you can either try to repot your succulent, to a more fitting soil mix. Anything with 70%+ pumice will do, but you may have to experiment and see. Another option is actually pruning your baby toes succulent, removing some of the leaves (or even half of it), which will lessen the strain on the roots, since they won’t need to “feed” such a big plant, and even if minuscule they should manage to do their job with the leaves still left on the plant.

Final thoughts

Fenestraria rhopalophylla, knows as “Baby Toes Succulent” thrives in neglect, and doesn’t mind lack of water in its native land. When we try to grow it in our houses and flats, however, it may experience some issues, and the most common is shriveling. As you know now, different things can cause your Fenestraria to shrivel, including over-watering and subsequent root rot, under-watering, and under-developed root system for the size of the plant, which happens commonly in soil mixes that are too gritty.

 

Final words

Growing succulents is not as easy as many people think. The longer you stick with it, the more issues you will experience. We looked at the most common ones in this post, and I hope you now feel more ready to deal with them. Good luck to you, and do not forget to check also the following posts: