Over-watered burro’s tail
Burro’s Tail, a crowd favorite, an easy to grow succulent that will immediately catch the eye of your visitors. Who would not want to have at least one plant at home? Sedum Morganianum (Latin name for Burro’s Tail) isn’t vulnerable to pests or fungi infestations. But it is prone to over-watering, which is the reason no.1 one why many growers never see this fantastic succulent reach its full beauty, and also the most common reason while your burro’s tail may die. In this article we will look at most common signs of over-watering in burro’s tail, and also how to address the problem. Let’s start!
You should always start with checking the moisture of the soil
Over-watering is the most common issue with burro’s tail, but before you blame wrinkled leaves, or drooping plant, or changes of color to over-watering, you should always check the moisture of the soil first. Put your finger inside. If it is very wet and the soil sticks to your finger, and you haven’t watered the plant that recently, it is almost for sure over-watered.
Having a basic idea of the optimal watering frequency can also help here. If you water your burro’s tail twice a week and do not live in a summer in a desert, I can almost guarantee it is over-watered. On the contrary, if you water it just once in every two or three weeks, the chances are that the problems you see on the plant (such as shriveling leaves, changes in color, strange smell) are caused by something else (pests, sunburn, wrong use of fertilizer, under-watering, etc).
Over-watering causes root rot, the problem is you cannot see it
Many people do not understand correctly the chain of cause and effect when it comes to plants and their problems. For example, they see wrinkled leaves and think: This plant lacks water, shriveled leaves cannot be caused by over-watering. But this is a misconception. When you over-water your plant on an ongoing basis, what happens is that the rooting systems rots. And once it is rotten and doesn’t work as it should, it isn’t capable anymore of transporting water or nutrients to the leaves of your Burro’s Tail. Hence they will shrivel, and your plant may eventually die.
The problem is that you cannot see roots rotting, unless you dig a hole in the pot once in a while and check the health of the rooting system. But few people do this and it is a big disturbance for the succulent anyway. That’s why you have to look for secondary symptoms that indicate the problem. Let’s have a look at the most common.
Visible symptoms of over-watered Burro’s Tail
One of the most typical signs is shriveling of leaves. If the leaves shrivel, and especially leaves that are closer to the center of the plant, it is a clear sign that you gave your Sedum too much water, over a longer period of time. That’s because the rooting system isn’t capable of delivering the required nutrients to the plant anymore. The leaves do not get what they need, and hence they do not look as they should.
Another symptom are mushy leaves, or the “stem area”, if we can call it that way. Again the regulation mechanisms do not work as they should, and the root rot is progressing to the body of the plant. Last but not least, you can always check the moisture of the soil–if it stays moist for too long, if it virtually never dries, it is very likely that the rooting system has rotten, and the moisture simply stays in the soil since it cannot transport it… Now you should be able to identify the over-watering in your Burro’s Tail. Let’s have a look at what you can do to address it.
Remedy for mildly over-watered Burro’s Tail
What you can and should do once you diagnose the over-watering in your plant depends on how much damage has been done. And that in turn depends on for how long have you been giving too much water to your Burro’s Tail, but is also depends on how mature your plant is. Older mature plants are more versatile and they can survive over-watering for much longer than younger plants that simply lack robust and complex root system.
Anyway, if you spot the problem very early–like you over-watered your plant just for a week or two, or if you’ve done if for longer but we talk here about a mature healthy plant, the only remedy you have to take is stopping the watering until the soil is completely dry, and lessen your watering frequency.
Treating Burro’s Tail with mid-level of severity of over-watering requires more work
When you have a young plant, or you really did this for too long and already see some leaves shriveling or your plant getting mushy, or there’s a strange smell around the plant, you will have to do a bit more to save your Burro’s Tail from dying. Namely:
- Immediately remove the plant from the pot, and clean it from the current soil (likely wet and sticky).
- Cut away rotten parts of roots, or even rotten parts of the plant, if it can still be done without damaging the entire plant.
- Repot your Burro’s Tail to a new pot (or what remained of it), using the right potting mix (one for succulents), and make sure to use a pot with a drainage hole.
- Water more sparingly, so you do not have to repeat the process over and over again…
Severely over-watered Burro’s Tail cannot be saved
There are certain instances in life when we simply have to accept a defeat, and move on. You may encounter such situations even with your succulents… What I try to say here is that when the entire plant is mushy or shriveled, when you for one reason or another haven’t spot the problem earlier, you likely cannot save this exemplar of Burro’s Tail anymore.
You can still try taking it from the original pot and inspecting the roots for rot. Most likely though the entire rooting system will be irreversibly damaged and rotten, and in such a case you can just thank higher powers for this lesson, and move on. Not all battles can be won. As long as you learn from the experience, and do not repeat the same mistake with your new Sedum, you are good to go….
Burro’s tail leaves wrinkled – What causes it and how to address it?
Burro’s Tail is one of the favorite succulents, particularly in the US. Central and Western dry climate suits it well, and it can survive both inside and outside (if you do not expose it to extreme sunlight or cold). Generally this succulent is easy to take care of, and it isn’t particularly vulnerable when it comes to pests and diseases. Perhaps the biggest problem is the wrinkling (or shriveling) of leaves. In my experience, one of ten people experience this issue at least once with their Sedum Morganianum, and now we will look at three main causes of the issue, and how you can address them.
Before we dive into the details, let me give you a quick answer to the question: Burro’s Tail wrinkled leaves suggest either over-watering, or under-watering, or bad balance of nutrients in the soil. In 95% of cases one of the three is to blame. But which one is the case with your Burro’s Tail? That’s easy to find out, as long as you follow the suggestions I am going to outline below. Let’s start with the probably most common cause of wrinkled leaves–over watering.
Over-watering as no. 1 cause of wrinkled leaves of your Burro’s Tail.
We all know how it goes–you like your new succulent, you want to give it the best possible care. But just like it is with people, giving too much care and paying too much attention can sometimes hurt the plant. Sedum is a succulent, and most succulents are fine with watering frequency of once a week or once two weeks. Of course it depends on the dryness of the air, temperature where you live, place where you keep your succulent, how old and big it is, and on many other factors. As a rule of a thumb though, if you water your Burro’s Tail more than once a week indoors, it is almost for sure over-watered.
Go and check the dryness of the soil. No need to use elaborate tools like moisture meter. Just put your finger into the soil, at least two inches deep. Is the soil moist? Does it stick to your fingers? If it does, and you haven’t watered your Burro’s Tail recently, chances are high you are simply watering it too often. Now, excess water isn’t the direct cause of wrinkled leaves. It is root rot, which is caused by the excessive watering. When root system starts rotting it cannot transfer the water and the nutrients to the body of the Burro’s Tail properly, and hence leaves start to wrinkle, and your succulent may eventually die…
Addressing over-watering as a cause of shriveled leaves of your Sedum
I have both good and bad news for you here. Good news is that if the over-watering didn’t last for too long, and the root system isn’t terminally damaged, as long as you immediately change the watering schedule (making it less frequent), and perhaps even replant the succulent to new dry soil, you can still save your plant. Succulents are one of the plants that can regenerate. When replanting it, you may even cut away the rotten parts of roots (but leave at least some roots on the plant!), and if you do it well, it will recuperate and look beautiful again.
The bad news is that if the problem has been going on for too long, and if the roots are terminally damaged (there are barely any healthy parts left), you cannot save your burro’s tail anymore. Time to shed a tear, throw the plant to compost, and start with a new one. Lesson learned, and I am sure you won’t repeat the same mistake again…
Under-watering as the 2nd most common cause of Sedum Morganianum wrinkled leaves
When you rule out over-watering as the cause of the problem (and make sure to do so before you proceed further, since over-watering is 10 times more common in succulents than under-watering), you should think whether you actually didn’t give your succulent too little water. You know how it goes: We are busy with work, and with all sort of other stuff. Maybe you’ve been going through a rough period lately, and problems occupied your mind. Time flew by and without really realizing it, you didn’t water your plants for three weeks.
If that’s the case, the shriveled leaves of your Burro’s Tail may simply indicate that there isn’t enough liquid in them, which means that you didn’t give your plant enough water. Again, you an check the soil for dryness with your finger. If it is dry like a desert, under-watering likely caused the undesired appearance of your Burro’s Tail leaves.
Addressing under-watered Burro’s Tail is no rocket science
As you can imagine, addressing any under-watered plant is no rocket science. If someone is thirsty, you give them water. And it is exactly the same story with your beloved succulent. Water it immediately, but make sure you use a pot with drainage hole, and also that you do not drown it in water…
Under-watered succulent can drink a lot, but you should remember plants do not like extreme shocks of any nature. Soak it as it would soak in a rain in its natural environment, but then let the soil dry completely and just after that water it again. The most important thing here is to have at least some regularity, so you do not forget to water your sedum for three weeks again. Perhaps you can set up a notification on your phone or something similar, to make sure you know when to water your plants.
Bad balance of nutrients in the soil as no. 3 main cause of Burro’s Tail wrinkled leaves
Many people think that since succulents are native to semi-desert areas, they can sustain any type of environment, and will thrive in any soil. And while some succulents can really sustain almost anything, Burro’s Tail does not belong to the group. It likes certain acidity of soil, and certain nutrients like phosphorus for example.
Now, I do not want to go into technical details here, since for 95% of growers it makes no sense to bother with them. The key lesson here is that you should plant your Sedum in a soil that’s designed for succulent and cacti (either you can buy it or you can make your own), and not in a soil that’s meant for completely different plants, or even for the vegetables in the garden.
If you planted your Burro’s Tail in some random soil or fertilized it too much, it can either cause a certain form of damage to the root system (burning), or it can impair the plant roots’ ability to deliver the water enriched with necessary nutrients to the leaves of the plant. As a result they will either shrivel, or they will change color. Hence if any of that happened and you rule out the possibility of over-watering or under-watering your Sedum, the chances are high bad soil is to blame. Remedy is quite simple here: Repot your Donkey’s Tail, and use the right soil mix this time :).
Final thoughts
In general, Burro’s Tail is easy to grow, and you won’t experience many problems with it. If you over-water or under-water it, or make a bad choice when buying soil for your succulents, however, you may notice wrinkled leaves on your plant. Try to address the cause as early as possible. Follow this post for instructions on how to identify the issue, and how to address it. If you act quickly, you will soon enjoy your sedum in full beauty again :).
How to keep Sedum from falling over?
I have written several posts about sedums recently. But I did not touch on this issue that seems to bother many of my readers, following their reactions to my other posts about this beautiful succulent. Sedum looks good if it is healthy, and logically people want to know how to make sure their plants thrive, instead of falling over or simply dying. Let me get straight to the point:
Sedums may fall over from a variety of reasons. The most common are overly rich soil, over-watering, and lack of sunlight. Reducing nutrients in the soil, less water, and more sunlight can help sedum plants stay in good shape. Let’s have a look at how you can address this issue as a grower, and make sure your Sedum won’t fall over.
Providing Support System
When the stems or stalks of sedums fall over, it means that the plants’ system is not strong enough to support the weight of the plant. Providing a support system will help in 9 out of ten cases. Let me guide on how you should do it, in two simple steps.
- Pound stakes around the plant. What you need are 18-inch wooden stakes, and then you simply stick them in the ground around the plant. Of course, if your plant is smaller, the stakes do not need to be that long. Use common sense when deciding about the right size of the stakes.
- Tie the Stakes. The next thing you should do is to tie a twine connecting all the stakes that surround the plant. I want to sort of wrap the plant with twine several times tightly. There are many ways to do it, again you just need to follow a common sense, making sure the twine really helps to keep the plant together, that it gets it the support it needs.
Related: How to Prepare Sedum for Winter?
Replanting Sedum clumps
If your sedum plants are three to four years old, chances are they form dense clumps. It may be another reason why your plant starts to fall over, or at least it isn’t doing as well as it should be. Here’s what you need to do:
- Divide the dense clumps. Divide the dense clumps into smaller ones, as easy as that.
- Transfer them to new location. Take the clumps and transfer them to a new location. I suggest that you choose a spot in your garden that has access to sunlight for about at least four hours a day. Sedum loves sun, so you should give it some.
- Replant the clumps. Now that you have chosen the perfect spot for sedum clumps to grow, it is time to replant it. Dig a hole where the clump will perfectly fit. Get those excavated soil and tamp it around the roots. If there are clods, break them so that they can be distributed evenly around the plant.
Of course, in many cases do not have to or want to replant sedums. You can just prune the heavy part so that they won’t fall over.
A few extra tips when it comes to growing Sedum
We know at least 400 varieties of sedums. Some are small while others can grow up to three feet tall. Those that grow tall tend to produce huge flower heads which cause them to fall over. It commonly happens in sedums that are planted in the soil rich in nutrients. And while you do not want your plants to fall over, at the same time you want to enjoy the flowers :).
If this is the case, mix the soil with sand to neutralize the nutrient content. The other thing you can do is prune the heavy top. When you do this, make sure that you use clean and sharp pruning shears. Pruning will help especially succulents that grow in low light. It will help them develop sturdier stem. The stalks will also become thicker and stronger.
Another reason why sedum plants may fall over is the lack of sunlight exposure. If you are growing sedums indoors or in shade, you might probably come across this issue. The easiest thing to do is transfer the plants to sunnier areas. And if you grow them outdoors, you should get a grow light.
Can Sedum grow in shade?
Let’s start with facts: Succulents are native to semi-desert and desert areas. Sun shines a lot in the desert–that’s likely no surprise to you :). Logically they prefer direct or indirect sunlight (depending on the variety of a succulent), and Sedum is no exception to the rule. However, we not always have a fitting place in the garden, or we sometimes want to grow succulents inside. The question is then, whether you can actually grow Sedum in shade, at least with some success. LEt me tell you what I’ve learned in years of experience with this beautiful succulent.
Sedums can grow in shade but they will thrive only in full sun. This means that they grow better outdoors than indoors, in a sun than in shaede. What I learned that as long as a succulent doesn’t get something they prefer–such as full sun when it comes to Sedums, you need to do everything else right, that means really make sure that your plants do well. Let me explain it a bit more in detail.
Different varieties of Sedum and they light preference
Sedums are succulents with thick leaves, fleshy stems, and star-shaped flowers. These plants are a great addition to your garden, and I’ve enjoyed them more than most of my plants. However, it is important to note that sedum comes in different varieties. All the varieties are commonly known for their hardiness, ease to care for, and ease to multiply.
Generally speaking, we know two types of sedums based on their growth characteristics: low-growing and upright sedums. The low-growing sedums are those that spread and cover the ground. In most cases, they are only a few inches high. If you want some sort of ground cover in your garden, then this type of sedum is the best option. Upright sedums on the other hand grow upright clumps with a mass of tiny flowers. This type of sedum is perfect for border gardens. In my experience, low-growing sedums do better in shade than upright sedums.
When is the Perfect Time to Plant Sedum?
Although you can plant sedum anytime you want, the best time I found is in the spring when the temperature is perfect for sedum. It isn’t too cold anymore, but it is neither too hot yet, something the plant may struggle to bear with while too young.
However, make sure that you plant sedum in well-draining soil. Remember that succulents do not like regular garden soil because it retains too much water. Good succulent soil is the one that provides drainage and aeration to the plant.
Planting in sunny spot is better, but shade will also do, especially for low-growing sedum
Although sedums can grow in shade, they grow better in full sun. Give them an outdoor space with access to sunlight whenever you can. Having said that, I know people who grow sedums indoors, and their plants do not do badly. I think it is a matter of care that you dedicate to these plants.
If you are growing sedums outdoors, it is a hardy plant and with enough sun you can almost forget it and just enjoy its beauty (especially when the flowers appear). But if you grow it indoors, you must be more careful with soil selection and everything, and perhaps even consider getting a great grow light.
Guide on planting sedum
If you are a beginner in growing sedums, you probably wonder how to plant them. Well, much like many succulent varieties, planting sedums only takes a few steps. Let me show you these steps:
- Prepare for enough space for the plant. For maximum growth, it is important to provide space in between. That said, I usually leave at least 1-2 feet of space between sedum plants. Space however depends on the type of sedum you’re growing. If you have low-growing sedums, then you can adjust the space between the plants. Usually, a larger space is ideal to allow them to grow freely.
- Plant the cuttings. The next thing you can do is actually plant the cuttings. Just put the end of the cutting into the soil and it will root on its own. With the right amount of water, light, and soil the cutting should grow.
Planting sedums is just a starting point. You need to make sure that they grow well and thrive. Let me share with you a few things to remember when you want to keep sedum plants healthy.
- Right amount of water. Although sedums are hardy and can tolerate drought, they cannot last forever without water. The amount of water depends on the plants’ needs. However, too much or too little water can be detrimental to sedums. Thus, make sure that you do not overwater or underwater your plants. There is an effective watering method you can use. I also use it for all my succulent plants: the soak and dry watering technique. It involves soaking the succulent soil completely when watering. Water again only when the soil is completely dry. The excess water should drain through the drainage hole of the pot.
- Appropriate soil mix. Generally speaking, succulents do not like compact or garden soil. It retains too much water. Make sure that you are using fast-draining soil. This soil retains just enough moisture for sedums to enjoy. Not only it helps drain the excess water during watering, but it also provides good aeration. You can make your own succulent soil or buy it online.
- Sunlight exposure – Although sedum can grow in shade, it will thrive in full sun. If you grow them indoors, place them near the windows, carry them on a balcony every other day, or get a grow light.
Final thoughts
Sedums love full sun but it does not mean that they cannot survive in shade. However, if you want to enjoy them in their full beauty, you should give them a sunny spot… Growing sedums is like growing other succulent varieties. You need to give them enough sunlight, water, and an appropriate pot.
Will Sedum survive winter?
Sedum is a succulent commonly known for its tolerance to heat, drought, and cold weather. If you are living in an area with extreme climate conditions, and not sure what succulents to grow, you can always fall back on Sedum, since it can survive almost anywhere. And winter conditions are no exception to the rule.
Sedum can survive winter. However, upright sedum tends to die during winter, but not the stalk or the whole plant. It means that sedum will rise again after the cold season and recover. If you do not want to see the upright sedum dying, you can prune the plant before the winter. It won’t affect the plant negatively. But how to take care of your sedum in winter? This is a crucial question you need to ask yourself.
Choose the right pot and location
If you plan to leave sedum outdoors in winter, you need to make sure that everything is set up for the cold weather. The extremely cold weather can harm the plant in many ways. That being said, you should make sure that your sedum has the right growing medium and space where it can grow. I recommend you to use resin containers for your sedum plants, especially if you plant to leave them outside during winter.
Ceramic pots may crack when the freezing temperature hits the garden. Non-ceramic pots such as resin containers will not, and hence my recommendation. Aside from pot, you should also make sure that the sedum isn’t placed in direct sunlight in winter. Instead, place the plant under some shade.
You can also further protect sedum from cold weather by burying the pot in the ground. Although this is an extra effort on your side, it will improve the chances of your plant to survive a long and cold winter.
2. Watering Sedum in winter
In general, Sedum does not need much water. What’s more, sedums do not grow actively during winter, so you need to stop or moderate the watering. However, in dry winter, sedum should get some water to survive. Although winter is cold, the succulent soil can dry out. So make sure to check the soil occasionally.
Potted sedums often need more water in winter than those that are planted directly in the ground. Give water if necessary. But make sure you always check the moisture of the soil before watering. Remember that succulents are even more prone to over-watering during the winter season. I say that when you aren’t sure, you should refrain from watering your sedum in winter months.
3. Bring sedum indoors during winter
Although sedum will be fine outdoor during winter, you can always bring it indoors to keep it safer. However, when you do that, you need to remember a couple of things:
- Prune. Although this is an option, you can always prune elongated stems of the sedum before you bring it inside. This depends on the size of the plant of course. If you have smaller sedum, you do not need to prune it.
- Reduce watering. The climate affects the water needs of succulents. In most cases, succulents need less water in winter. In fact, some succulents do not need water at all. Always check the soil of your sedum. Water it only when the soil is completely dry.
- Provide appropriate light source. You might be thinking about how you are going to give your sedum sunlight during winter. The best option is to use grow light (click here to check my recommended grow light on Amazon). Almost all succulents need regular sunlight exposure. But you know it is not possible during winter. Grow light will help you tremendously to keep your plants safe and healthy over a long and cold winter…
Basic care for Sedum indoors
Sedums survive almost anything during the summer, when they get all their need from sun and mother Earth. However, they need proper care in winter. The first thing to remember is to not overwater your sedum. Apply the soak and dry method. Soak the soil and let the excess water drain through the hole at the bottom of the pot. Water again only once the soil is completely dry.
To make sure that the soil is dry before watering, stick your finger into the soil. If the soil sticks to your finger, then it is still moist. If not, then the soil is already dry, and you can water your sedum.
Final thoughts
Sedum can survive in winter, even outdoors. It is one of the most resilient succulents and it can tolerate the extreme temperatures. You can also bring your sedum indoors to add additional layer of safety. When you do so, however, make sure that you provide the sunlight, water, and soil needs of sedum. With proper care, sedum will thrive indoors, and it will survive winter…
Burro’s Tail Leaves Falling off
The only problem with Sedum is that it is quite fragile, at least when compared to most other popular succulents. If we do not treat it well, the leaves will start falling off, it will lose it’s beauty. So why burro’s tail leaves fall off so easily? Let me explain it to you. Said in very simple words (we’ll elaborate on it in a second), when this fragile plant is disturbed in any means, the leaves will fall off the stem. Another cause is over or under-watering the plant. Luckily you can control most of these things, and now I will help you understand why, and also give you a fresh perspective on this phenomenon.
Falling leaves is the very nature of every plant–burro’s tail is no exception to the rule
If you are new to growing this succulent, it might be frustrating for you to see Burro’s Tail losing most of its leaves. But you need to understand that it is a completely natural process–the cycle of nature. Leaves grow, and then they fall, so they can grow again.
The good news is that the fallen leaves or beans can be grown into new plants. It is because you can plant those seeds and grow burro’s tail again, and perhaps surprise your friends or family with a nice gift. To make it clear: As long as the falling of leaves is infrequent, there is nothing to worry about, and you can simply enjoy growing your plants.
However, if it is more frequent and in large numbers, then probably something wrong is going on. Check the amount of water your water is getting. In this case, there are two possible reasons. The first one is under-watering. Sometimes, especially during the seasons when this plant is actively growing, it needs more water than it usually does. So you need to give it enough. Of course weather also plays the role–if it is hot and sunny, the soil can dry very quickly, even though this is a succulent.
During the dormant season, however, when the burro’s tail is not actively growing, watering should be minimal. Most over-watering incidents happen during the dormant season. People want to help their plants but in fact they hurt them with too much water. My suggestion is that always check the soil. If it is dry, apply a soak and dry watering method. This means that when watering, soak the soil completely with water and allow it to dry. Only water if the soil is already dry. This way you can save your succulent from over or under-watering. Extra care should be exercised especially when dealing with delicate plants like burro’s tail.
How to Care for and Propagate Burro’s Tail or Sedum Morganianum
Burro’s Tail is one of the succulents that grow tall. In most cases, it can reach up to 4’ in height. It takes several years for this plant to reach its full-length potential. Like other plants, as it gets older, it also gets heavier and heavier because it gets thicker and thicker. The stems become heavy with overlapping plump with leaves that will form like a groovy braided pattern.
When growing Burro’s Tail, I suggest that you use a more resilient pot such as a hanging basket. Do not use a fragile pot because it may not be able to support the plant as it grows bigger. Unlike other succulents, growing Burro’s Tail is more challenging. Because it is a fragile succulent, it also requires special care. If you treat it well, however, you’ll get a reward in the form of an amazing beauty of this plant…. Let me elaborate now on a few things you should consider when caring for burro’s tail.
Give it some sun and some shade
Like most succulent species, Burro’s Tail loves partial sun or bright shade. It does not like hot full sun because it is fragile. It prefers morning sun–which is great for both people and plants. I suggest give it 4-5 hours a day of sun exposure in the morning.
If the Burro’s Tail is exposed to hot direct sunlight, its stem tends to become pale green. If this happens in your plant, then there’s a high tendency that the plant has exposed to the direct sun, and worst things can start to happen–such as the majority of leaves falling off. A healthy Burro’s Tail has a blue-green color. Any color that will develop in the plant might mean something, such as too much sun or lack of sun or lack of water. Observing your plant regularly, you can easily spot any problem, addressing it before it turns into something bigger.
Just the right amount of water
Overwatering is the easiest way to kill a succulent plant, and Burro’s Tail is no exception to the rule. It is not tolerant to excessive amounts of water. Its stems and leaves store water very well. Giving it too much water will certainly harm the plant, if not kill it. So be careful.
If you have newly planted or young Burro’s Tail, you need to minimize the amount of water you give. But if you have a well-established plant, for example, 4-5 years old Burro’s Tail, you can increase the amount of water and the frequency of schedule. The bigger the plant, the more water it needs, which is completely logical but some people tend to forget it.
Watering once every two weeks is a good practice. When you water, make sure to soak the soil then let it dry. This will not only help all the roots to absorb water but also help to flush all the toxins deposited in the soil. During summer or growing season, Burro’s Tail needs more water. During this period, you can give more water and more frequent watering schedule. I’d suggest watering it every 8-11 days.
Best soil for Burro’s Tail
Like other succulents, Burro’s Tail needs a fast-draining soil. A soil mix that does not store water but enough moisture is your best choice. One of my favorite products is the organic mix from Noot (* the link is an affiliate link, if you need a soil and decide to purchase this one, I’ll earn a few cents as a commission, so thank you in advance for supporting my blog 🙂).
But you can find a decent soil mix in the nearby garden supply store as well, or can even make your own succulent soil mix, if you prefer that to buying anything.
Right temperature for Burro’s Tail
Temperature does influence Burro’s Tail growth. Generally speaking, this succulent loves a temperature that varies from 40-70 degrees. But of course, this also depends on many factors. My recommendation is that observe your plant every season.
If something unusual happens to them, try to investigate what could have caused the issue–and often it can be too much heat. If the color changes, try placing your succulent in a place with more shade, so the temperature does not rise to extreme numbers during the summer. Although some succulents are tolerant of extreme environmental conditions, not all of them could survive extreme temperatures, and Burro’s Tail definitely belongs to the more fragile mainstream succulents.
Insects and Burro’s Tail
Insects and other pathogens can really hearth succulent plants. Fortunately, Burro’s Tails are less susceptible to insects. The only common insects that attack this plant are the aphids. But you don’t have to worry about it. Aphids are easy to control. You just need to spray a mixture of alcohol and water and they will be gone.
Propagation of Burro’s Tail
Burro’s Tail is one of the easiest succulents to propagate. You just need to cut the stems you want to propagate. Then peel the bottom part of the leaves and let them callus for 2-3 weeks to several months. Make sure that the new plant has already established before planting it.
Planting Burro’s Tail is different from other succulents. It needs to be pinned in the pot to support the weight of the stems. Burro’s Tail can also be propagated using leaf cuttings. Remember that overwatering is the number one enemy of this plant. Depending on the season, adjust the amount of water and the watering schedule if necessary…
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